Taiwan: what to see and when to go

Taiwan sits off the southeastern coast of China, an island a little larger than Belgium but folded into a spine of mountains that reach over three thousand metres. Most visitors arrive expecting a dense, futuristic city-state and find something quite different: a country that is two-thirds forest and ridge, where you can eat breakfast in a neon-lit capital and by mid-afternoon be walking through cloud forest or standing on a Pacific cliff. It is one of the more relaxed places in Asia to travel, easygoing about foreigners, and genuinely warm in a way that isn't performed for tourists.

What it's actually like

The thing people underestimate is the landscape. Taiwan's interior is steep, wet and thickly wooded, and the population clusters on the flatter western plain. This means the cities feel busy while the mountains a short distance inland feel remote. It is also very safe, easy to move around by train and metro, and quietly efficient without being sterile. English is patchy outside the capital, but people will go out of their way to help you, sometimes walking you to where you're going rather than pointing.

Expect humidity. Expect scooters, thousands of them, and the organised chaos of a night market. Expect, too, a strong civic politeness: queuing, quiet trains, careful recycling.

Where to go

Taipei, in the north, is the obvious base and rewards a few days. It has serious museums, temples wedged between office blocks, hot-spring suburbs at Beitou, and the trails of Yangmingshan rising straight out of the city. Good for first-timers and anyone who likes their nature within reach of good food.

Tainan in the south is the old capital and the place to go for history and temples, a slower and more traditional feel, and food that locals across the island travel for. Kaohsiung, the southern port city, is more spread out and modern, with a harbour setting and easier access to the tropical south.

For scenery, Taroko Gorge on the east coast is the headline: a marble canyon cut by a river, though be aware it is periodically closed by earthquakes and typhoons, so check its status before planning around it. The east coast generally, around Hualien and Taitung, is the wild, rural, mountain-meets-ocean Taiwan, and suits anyone wanting to slow down. Sun Moon Lake in the centre and the high mountain town of Alishan draw those after cooler air and forest. The offshore islands, such as Penghu and Green Island, reward travellers with more time.

When to go

Autumn, roughly October into December, is the sweet spot: warm, drier, clearer skies. Spring can be pleasant but wet. Summer is hot, intensely humid, and the season for typhoons, which can shut down transport and mountain roads for a day or two at a time. Winter in the south stays mild and is a fine time to visit, while the north can turn grey, damp and surprisingly chilly. The high mountains are cold year-round and can see snow.

What first-timers get wrong

They stay only in Taipei and never reach the east or the mountains, which is where the country opens up. They also underestimate travel time: the west coast is fast by high-speed rail, but crossing to the east or going up into the hills is slow and winding. Buy an EasyCard for transport and convenience stores, which are everywhere and genuinely useful. Carry some cash, as smaller places and night market stalls often don't take cards. And don't over-plan the mountains around the weather.

Food worth seeking out

Night markets are the heart of eating here: try oyster omelette, stinky tofu if you're brave, pepper buns, and grilled squid. Beyond the stalls, seek out beef noodle soup, soup dumplings, and gua bao, the pork belly bun. Taiwan takes tea seriously, from hot oolong to the bubble tea that started here. In Tainan especially, look for milkfish, shrimp rolls and danzai noodles. Breakfast is its own event: soy milk, hot or cold, with fried dough sticks and savoury pancakes.